The Old City
With its almost medieval charm, the old city of Srinagar has sights, smells and sounds to enchant the most jaded traveler. Its labyrinthine roads and bustling bazaars are a photographer’s delight. Traditionally dressed men and women on their way to the city’s many mosques and shrines, burnt brick buildings with their In a lane off Nowhatta Chowk, there are several copper shops, overflowing with an amazing profusion of copperware. As a matter of fact, such shops are situated all over the old city because every Kashmiri uses copper for tableware – even



huqqa bases are made from copper. Some articles are un-patterned, others worked in bas-relief, engraving or pierced open-work. Exotic as they are, they make attractive ornaments about the house, or can be used as serving dishes.

One of the many moods of the old city is the constant reminder about its tradition of handicrafts. Well-appointed shops in the fashionable areas of Srinagar seem rather remote from the humble families of craftsmen who create tapestries and shawls; the old city changes all that. From top floor windows one catches sight of gaily embroidered fabric hanging out to dry. Occasionally a wizened old man cycles down the road, bearing a carpet, its lustrous colours glowing in the sunlight.

Kashmiri colours are not the fiery colours of the desert that sear the eyelids. They are subdued, almost purposely it would seem, to counterpoint nature’s magnificence. Earthy tones of brick, the rich hue of copper, even the vermilion of Kashmiri chillies drying  on window sills in autumn appear monochromatic when set off against the splendour  of the Valley’s backdrop. The only craft where Kashmiris revel in colour is in their carpets. Here too, the colours are never loud, never disharmonious, but always subtle and soft. At Hobba Kadal, shop after shop sells nothing but skeins of wool, mainly to carpet weavers. Study the muted tones and then relate them to the carpets that you see – as long as the colours remain in your mind’s eye, you will never mistake a Kashmiri carpet.
The old city also boasts of Kashmir’s many ancient shrines and mosques among which the shrine of Shah-I-Hamdan, situated between Habba Kadal and Fateh Kadal, is probably the most important. Shah-I-Hamdan, who came from Persia in the 13th century, was responsible for the spread of Islam in Kashmir. Khanqah-I-Mulla, on the banks of the Jhelum, was the very spot where Shah-I-Hamdan used to offer prayers. Upon his death, a shrine, ornately decorated with papier-mache on the walls and ceiling, was built in his memory. Makhdoom Sahib, Patthar Masjid, Jama Masjid and Pir Dastagir are the major mosques and shrines in the old city.

Tourists are welcome to visit the mosques and shrines in the old city. There are a few points to be kept in mind in accordance with the sanctity of these places. Women are not allowed into the inner sanctum of shrines, but there is no such restriction in the case of mosques. Shoes must be taken off at the entrance. Jamia Masjid charges a fee for photography. Visitors are expected to conform to certain rich warm colour, these are some of the old city’s moods which linger in the corners of a traveller’s mind, long after one leaves Kashmir.

Lending the are its vitality is the presence of the river Jhelum that flow through it. Srinagar has for long been Kashmir’s most important commercial town, and when one considers that boats have always been a primary means of conveyance in Kashmir, it is not difficult to see why. In time, the city has formed around the banks of the river. Today, the presence of the river Jhelum has become an integral part of the old city. Despite the fact that boats are no longer so extensively used as a means of conveyance. Nine bridges span the River Jhelum, and many, many more tiny ones intersect the network of waterways that flow through the old city.

The nine bridges are zero Bridge, Amira Kadal, Budshah Kadal, Habba Kadal, Fateh Kadal, Zaina Kadal, Aali Kadal, Nawa Kadal and Safa kadal, ‘ Kadal’ being the Kashmiri word for bridge. Of these Budshah Bridge and Zero Bridge are the newest; the former having been constructed by the British in this century. Presently, the oldest bridge is Fateh kadal, too dilapidated for actual use. However, many of the old bridges old-sity3 have been replaced with new concrete bridges and a few new once have also been added in new view of the increasing traffic. the most prominent among these is the Abdullah bridge, sited  near the tourist Reception Center.
The view From any of the old city's bridges is wholly and unmistakably Kashmir Old brick building line the banks. the distinctive pagoda -like roof of a mosque or a shrine enlivens the horizon and in the muddy water of the river jhelum ,a straggling row of doongas flanks the edges . these  beats ,with there shingled roofs ,are the forerunners of srinagar's houseboat A particular community lives in theme . Formerly this community was associated with ferrying people, livestock and food grains along the River. The past still lingers in there lifestyle even if there occupations have changed .Occasionally one may catch sight of a doonga making its stately progress down the river as the owner shifts residence .Doongas are sparsely furnished – virtually no furniture is seen expect for the kitchen, which gleans with cooper utensils of every description that line the shelves from floor to ceiling.

 Roads in the old city tend to be narrow, winding and chaotic. Some are too narrow to admit vehicular traffic . Each road connects to lanes and they in turn to bye-lanes ,all appearing to the uninitiated and terribly confusing . there are arterial roads , however , and major market squares where it is difficult to get lost . Regulations in the matter of dress –no skimpy tops , shorts or short skirts are allowed .
One does not go to the old city to shop. The exhilaration in exploring the old city comes from peeping into a world which normally admits no outsiders and which continues at its own pace , not much affected by changing times.
Wular Lake
It is difficult to describe in mere worlds the beguiling beauty of Woler Lake . for one , its formidable size –this is one of Asia ‘s largest fresh water Lakes –for anther , it changes character with every few miles .
The drive from Srinagar will take you to the calm water of Manasbal Lake , where there is no other sound but birdsong . Mansabal has often been described as the bird watcher’s paradise , and as your shikara through this mirror of tranquility , you will experience yet anther facet of kasmeer . Driving through the town of Bandipora which has a delightfully laid out Mughal Garden , the wolar will always be to your left . Here and there , you will hear woman chanting some age – old ditty as they as they pick water chestnuts , deftly navigating the weeds in flat – bottomed skiffs .
Watlab
Gradually , the panoply of the real kasmeer ,miles away from well – traversed areas, will unfold before you , and you will reach watlab . here high on a hilltop is the shirine of a muslim Baba Shukurddin from here the wular lake stretches away as far as the eye can see , edged by picturesque villages around terraced breeze- rippled of paddy , in a riotous burst of colure . At watlab there is a forest Rest house amidst sprawling apple orchards . you can rest here to enjoy the sheer grandeur of the spectacular countryside at leisure .

Kokenag

Situated in the hearth of Bringhi valley , kokerrnag ( 2,020m, 70 km srinagar ) is set amidst sprawling gardens fragrant with the bloom of thousands of flowers . The kokernag spring bubbles at the foot of the forested mountain . the water of the spring is medicinal and digestive properties .
Achabal

Once the pleasure retreat of Empress Noor jehan , Achabal ( 1,677 m) has a fine garden in the Mugal style ,with its own special charm and character . It was in kasmeer that the mugal garden was brought to perfection, and Achabal is one such masterpiece. Situated at the foot of a hill with a row of majestic chinars framing it , the mugal garden is a visual delight with there stepped terraces , formal elegances , ornamental shrubs , sparkling fountains and falling water . Achabal is 58 kms from srinagar , via Anantnag


Daksum

Past the mughal gardens of Achabal , with there tinkling fountains , through the breathtaking splendour of the springs at kokarnag , lies Daksum .
Tucked away in a densely forested gorge at an altitude of 2438 m, Daksum world be completely silent but for the bringhi river which gushes through it . Daksum is a walker‘s paradise. up the hills which are swathed in coniferous trees , past gurgling brooks, the simple , haunting notes of a flute will waft down to you from where an unseen shepherd tends his flock . for in the hills surrounding Daksum , suddenly you will fined yourself in grassy meadows where sheep are taken to pasture . daksum is a reving experiences –the bracing mountains air ,the solitude ,the densely clad hills , and beyond theme , snow covered mountains , all contribute to Daksum ‘s mystique, making it the perfect retreat .
Aharbal
Gradully, the distant rumble becomes a roar as one approach of aharbal, which crashes down a narrow gorge. Aharbal is more than just a waterfall.

Yusmarg

A two hour drive from srinagar ( 47kms)  will take you to acres upon acres of grassy meadow ringed by forest of pine , and towering beyond theme , awesome and majestic snow clad mountains . this is yusmarg –close enough to srinagar for a picnic , idyllic enough to make you went to stay for a few days . here are walks of every sort –a leisurely amble along flower –strewn meadows or away to where a mighty river froths and crashes its way over rocks .its mild white foam earning it the name of dudh ganga . further away , a captivating lake , Nilang ,is cradled by hills . Nearby are several peaks –Tatta Kutti and Sang Safed to name a couple of them. About 13 kms from Yusmarg , a short detour away from the srinagr road,is Charari – Shrine the shrine of kasmeer ‘s patron saint Sheikh Noor-ud –din or Nund Reshi, now rebuilt after the devastating fire of 1994 which engulfed the entire building.
Kheer Bhawani

The goddess Ragnya devi is symbolised as a sacred spring at Tula Mula village 27 kms from Srinagar . within the spring is a small marble temple . The devotes of the goddess fast and gather here on the eight day of the full moon in the month of may when , according to belief ,the goddess changed the colour of the spring ‘s waters . the temple –spring complex is affectionately known as kheer bhawani because of the thousands of devotees who after milk . and kheer to the sacred spring, which magically turns black to warn of disaster .
Kashmir Gallery